Friday, February 24, 2006


Figure Era: TSC
Year: 2006
Primary Appearance: Jango Fett: Open Season comics
Difficulty: Intermediate


1 TSC Boba Fett - cape
1 TSC Jango Fett - torso, helmet, backpack, neckpost
1 Elite Forces desert soldier (cheaper line from Target exclusive two-packs) - arms
1 Elite Forces soldier - hips, legs, head
custom made decals for helmet and chest armor

Games Workshop Shadow Grey (61-48)
shirt, cape, pants, highlights on helmet, gloves

Polly Scale Br. Ex. Dk. Sea Gray (F505264)
hair, boots, highlights on helmet, wrist strap, range finder on helmet, highlights on backpack

Polly Scale Night Black (505214) (RLM 22)dry brushed on armor, jetpack, boots, cape

Krylon Fusion Blue Hyacinth Spray Paint (2333)
inside of knee joints and shoulder joints

Model Master Acrylic Skin Tone Warm Tint (4603)Model Master Acrylic Skin Tone Tint Base (4601)

Model Master Acrylic Silver (4678)
Polly Scale Br. Ex. Dk. Sea Gray (F505264)

armor, helmet, highlights on backpack, missile in backpack


Parts Used

Cut the Elite Forces head off at the base of the neck, and cut Jango's head off the neck post. Make sure you figure out the proper slant to cut at so it will look right when placed in the torso. Connect Jango's neck post and the Elite Forces head using a small piece of paper clip and superglue.

Shave off the extra straps and pouches from the Elite Forces legs, and sculpt in the gaps with epoxy clay. The "cap" at the top of the waist peg may need to be filled in some with epoxy clay, so it doesn't wiggle as much when placed into Jango's torso. The base of the peg also needs to be carved away a bit to thin it out. Otherwise, Jango's torso won't close fully.

In Jango's torso, just behind one shoulder, drill a hole using a 3/32" drill bit. This will be where Boba's cape fits in. The peg on the cape isn't an exact size for a drill bit, but 3/32" is the smallest size hole that the cape fill fit in, although a little loosely. To tighten it up, put a little superglue on the peg and let it dry. Repeat if necessary to achieve the desired thickness.

On the arm with the watch, shave off the watch part leaving only the strap.

The parts are now ready to paint and assemble.

The face will need to be repainted, so the skin tone matches the one used for the arms. Draw over the eyebrows and irises with a .005 Micron black pen, and draw light outlines under the eyes to give him a "darker" look. Also when painting the face, wait for the paint to partially dry and get tacky, then lightly "tap" with a flat brush. This will give it some texture and make the face look more haggard, and not so smooth.

The two black lines running around the top of the helmet should be drawn in with a .005 micron black pen.

To make the decals, download the templates for the chest logo, arm logos, and the helmet logo.

Wednesday, February 22, 2006

Utapau Airborne Clone Trooper (Parjai Squad)

Figure Era: ROTS
Year: 2006
Primary Appearance: Star Wars, Ep. III: Revenge of the Sith
Difficulty: Intermediate


ROTS Commander Bacara - kama, pauldron/shoulder strap
ROTS Clone Trooper - arms, legs, torso (all except head)
Custom cast of airborne trooper head - courtesy of Glassman6!
Custom made shoulder pad from styrene strip and styrene rods
Custom made strap from styrene strips
Elite Forces soldier - pouch cut from right hip
1 TSC Obi-Wan Kenobi - 2 small pouches cut off the belt
Elite Forces soldier - small pouch cut from somewhere

Krylon Fusion Satin Dover White Spray Paint (2422)
white armor

Polly Scale Br. Ex. Dk. Sea Gray (F505264)
kama, dry brushing for pouch and strap
soles of feet
vertical strap on right side of torso

Polly Scale Night Black (505214) (RLM 22)
pauldron, mouth areas on helmet, bodyglove under armor (if needed)
dry brushed scuff marks/battle damage on armor

Polly Scale Light Gray (505061) (RLM 76)
front straps on kama

Model Master Acrylic International Orange (4682)Polly Scale CP Yellow (F404058)
orange markings on armor

Weathering Powders
Prof. Weathers Rustic Rust


Parts used for the Utapau Airborne Clone Trooper

Making the Left Shoulder Pad
Cut a piece of styrene for the base of the shoulder pad, from .020" x .250" styrene. Heat it slightly (just a couple of quick passes over lighter) and bend into position over the shoulder pauldron. Make sure to measure and do this with the arm in the raised position. Otherwise, you may prevent the arm from raising. My strip ended up with 9 rods sections along the length of it.

Once that is done, cut strips of styrene rods (3/64", 1.2mm diameter) to even lengths and glue them along the styrene strip.

Making the Right Shoulder Pad
Cut Commander Bacara's shoulder pad to the shape you want, and glue it onto the torso. I found that trying to do it with straps doesn't work too well, because the layered thickness of the strap from this, the vertical strap, and the strap from the pouch make it hard to get the head on correctly.

Making the vertical strap
Cut a strip of styrene, from the .020" thick strips, that is 1/8" wide and 2" long.

Making the strap for the pouch
Cut a strip of styrene, from the .020" thick strips, that is 1/16" wide and 3.25" long.

Making the pouch
The pouch from the Elite Forces soldier is open on one end and hollow. I stuffed it with epoxy clay to make it solid, and cut a slit in one of the top corners. Then into this slit, and the other side where it was already open, I inserted both ends of the strap while the clay was still wet. You can also reshape the outside of the pouch a little with the clay, and use it to reinforce where the straps are inserted.

Then cut a rectangle of the desired size from the stip styrene and glue it to the lower front part of the strap, on the side closest to the figure. Then cut 2 smaller strips and glue to the front side to make it flush with the strap. Use plastic cement for gluing styrene to styrene. Glue the three small pouches to this (two from Obi-Wan, one from the Elite Forces soldier) using superglue.

The completed pouch


Galactic Marine

Figure Era: ROTS/TSC
Year: 2006
Primary Appearance: Star Wars, Ep. III: Revenge of the Sith
Difficulty: Advanced


TSC Snowtrooper - torso, legs, kama, backpack
ROTS Clone Commander - right arm, left arm (optional)
ROTS Clone Trooper - left arm (optional), belt, plus 2 rectangles from a second belt
Custom casts of clone head & neck, and removable snowtrooper helmet - courtesy of Glassman6!
Custom sculpted backpack
Custom made shoulder pads (made from styrene)

Model Master Acrylic Kandy Scarlet (4646)Model Master Acrylic Bloode Red (4352)Polly Scale Night Black (RLM 22) (37038) (505214)
maroon parts of armor, skirt, helmet


Parts used for Galactic Marine

Modifying the Helmet
The snowtrooper helmet isn't exactly the same as the galactic marine's, so it needs to be modified slightly to make it a little more accurate. Just above eye-level, there is a ridge that runs all the way around the snowtrooper helmet. This ridge is not present in the galactic marine helmet, so it needs to be shaved off. Do this carefully with an Xacto knife (a curved blade works best), and then sand it to smooth it out.

The second thing different about the helmet is the ridge that goes all around the eyes - the snowtrooper helmet has one, while the galactic marine does not. This ridge can't be cut away like the other one. Not only would it be very difficult, it wouldn't be accurate either. Instead the ridge has to be blended in with what's outside of it (not the inside, toward the eyes). You can use some kind of putty or clay to do this. Normally I prefer an epoxy putty, like Milliput, because it is more durable and doesn't need to be baked, but in this case the area to be filled in so small that I just used plastic modeling putty. You can also use the same stuff to smooth out any irregularities from removing the previous ridge. For example, if you gouged too deep in a certain spot.

While fixing the ridge around the eyes, also put some putty between the eyes. The snowtrooper eyes are more like a visor, so that both eyes are connected. But the galactic marine has two distinctly separate eyes, so fill in between them to create two distinct eyes.

The galactic marine also has a vent in the back of the helmet. This could be carved into the head if using a standard snowtrooper head. However, here I'm making a removable helmet and that is too thin to carve into. Therefore, the vent will just be painted on (it is basically a black strip).

Original cast of Snowtrooper helmet, by Glassman

Modified Galactic Marine helmet

Galactic Marine helmet, after it was modified and primed

Comparison of original Glassman Snowtrooper helmet to modified Galactic Marine helmet.

Preparing the Neck Post
The neck post of the custom cast wasn't really made to fit in the snowtrooper torso. To make it fit, and to make it look right, you need to cut around the base of the neck to make it fit flush into the opening of the neck hole in the torso. Don't put the neck base into the neck hole because then the neck will look too short.

Find a good balance between trimming away the base of the neck post and widening the neck hole in the torso.

Modifying the Legs
While the snowtrooper legs are similar to what a galactic marine has, they aren't the same. The first thing to do is to fix the straps. The snowtrooper has four straps around the lower leg, while the galactic marine has only two. Shave off the top and bottom straps on each leg, and sand to smooth it out.

The next step is to make shin guards. I cut these out of styrene strips (you can download the template for these here). Before gluing them on to the snowtrooper's shins, fill in the ridges with epoxy clay and sand it down after it dries. This way, you have a nice, smooth, and even surface to glue the shing guard to.

Next, cut out the two big rectangles from a spare clone trooper belt (not the belt you'll be using for this figure). Trim off the edges and back, and then dab a little bit of epoxy clay on the back of each rectangle. Gently press them into position on the thighs, just enough to get an imprint of the leg. Let the epoxy clay harden. Once it is cured, glue the two rectangles into position. Fill in the gaps with putty, if necessary.

Modifying the kama
The snowtrooper kama needs the holster cut off. Cut this off with an Xacto knife and smooth the area, with putty if necessary.

Once this is done, shave off the belt buckle (or whatever that is) on the front, and also trim away the other components of the belt all the way around. Glue the clone belt in place, making sure the gap is in the back. However, don't do this until the figure is fully assembled, otherwise you won't be able to get the torso in place.

After the belt is in place, follow the inside edge of the kama up with an Xacto knife. The goal is the change the opening from the rounded one it already is to more of a "V" shape, with the point ending just at the belt.

Now cut out a rounded slit at the back of the kama. The slit should be centered and not too big.

Modifying the chestplate
On the snowtrooper's chestplate, shave off the part to the left of the center portion. Shave off the bumps on the right side, and the rank insignias on the left chest area. The indentation below the flat center portion should be filled in with putty or epoxy clay. Sand all modified areas to smooth them out.

In the front of the chestplate, there is distinctive oval-shaped flat portion. In the snowtrooper this extends all the way down. But on the galactic marine, this only extends part of the way down. To simulate this (it won't be exact), shave off the edges of the lower portion and sand it to round it off. These two portions will be painted differently to enhance the difference.

Making the shoulder pads
Download and print out the shoulder pad template from here. Cut out the larger piece. Only cut out the outline and don't worry about the lines inside the drawing. Later, the smaller individual pieces will be cut out and glued onto the larger piece and the locations outlined. Once the large piece is cut out of paper, secure it to a piece of sheet styrene that is .030" (0.75mm) thick. Trace the outline with a pencil and then cut the piece out of the styrene, very carefully, using a sharp Xacto knife. Once the piece is cut out, sand all the edges using fine grain sandpaper. Sand each edge at an angle, from both sides, to very slightly round the edges. Do the same to the corners.

Now transfer the lines from the printout to the styrene - not the inner squares and shapes, but the four places where the shoulder pad will be bent. Once that's done, bend the styrene to shape. Just a slight bend will suffice.

To bend it, get a pair of small needle-nose pliers and line up one edge against the line you drew, from the outside edge. Hold the pliers in one hand, and pass a flame under that portion of the styrene. Do NOT hold the flame under the styrene. It softens extremely fast and will buckle if heated too long. Just quickly pass the flame along the line, and it should be fine. Immediately press the pliers down against a flat surface to create the bend. Repeat for the other three bends.

Now cut out the smaller, inner shapes using the same method as before. After smoothing and sanding the six pieces as before, glue the shapes onto the shoulder pad.

Next, transfer the circle (the hole for the neck post) onto the styrene and cut it out. You can use a knife or a drill.

All that's left is to paint it.


Tuesday, February 21, 2006

Lando Calrissian (Shadows of the Empire Outfit)

Figure Era: OT
Year: 2006
Primary Appearance: Star Wars: Shadows of the Empire


1 VOTC Lando Calrissian
cape from a POTF2 Lando Calrissian
vest from a TSC Han Solo
gun - pieced together from guns in my fodder bin

1:1 ratio
Polly Scale Dark Blue (RLM 24) (F505023)
Model Master Acrylic Bloode Red (4352)
pants, shoes, vest

Polly Scale Dark Blue (RLM 24) (F505023)

Polly Scale CP Yellow (F404058)

7:1 ratio
Model Master Acrylic Bloode Red (4352)
Polly Scale Night Black (RLM 22) (505214)
belt, pocket on vest

Weathering Powders
Prof. Weathers Filthy Brown + water - 1st layerProf. Weathers Filthy Brown (dry) - 2nd layer

Prof. Weathers Dry Dust + Filthy Brown (mixed together)
gun (very light coating, then rub off, then apply with damp brush again)

Cut the cloth cape off the VOTC Lando, getting as much of the fabric as possible up under the collar. Place the Han Solo vest on Lando and line up the POTF2 Lando cape in the position you like. Mark where the peg from the cape touches the vest.

Carefully, use a 7/64" drill bit to drill through the vest and into Lando's back. Be careful not to go too deep! Then shave off the "ledge" around the peg on the inside of the cape, and shave a little off the peg itself to make it a little thinner. Don't do too much and check the fit as you go.

The hole in Lando's back. Note that it is off-center, due to the way I wanted to position the cape. The paint app in this picture is a prototype, so ignore it! :)

The modified cape

All that's left is to paint!


Voolvif Monn

Figure Era: ROTS
Year: 2006
Primary Appearance: Star Wars: Clone Wars animated miniseries
Difficulty: Basic


1 ROTS Ki-Adi-Mundi
1 ROTS Agen Kolar
1 POTF2 Lak Sivrak

PollyScale Earth Brown (F505240)clothing

1:2:4 ratio
Model Master Acrylic Bloode Red (4352)Polly Scale CP Yellow (F404058)Polly Scale Earth Brown (F505240)

Polly Scale Light Gray (RLM 76, 505061)
hands, feet

Polly Scale Night Black (RLM 22)
nails, belt buckle

Polly Scale Dark Gray (RLM 74, 505059)
cuffs, inner shirt, belt

Polly Scale Br. Ex. Dk. Sea Gray (F505264)lightsaber handle


Part used

Assembly of the legs

Parts used to make the skirt

Assembled skirt

Assembled figure, before priming and painting


Monday, February 20, 2006


Figure Era: Vintage
Primary Appearance: Star Wars, Ep. VI: Return of the Jedi
Difficulty: Basic

A black ewok seen in the background of Return of the Jedi.

Future Enhancements: Add the hood, improve paint job with a wash and dry brushing.


1 Vintage Logray

Simple repaint of the original figure


Jabba the Hutt

Figure Era: Vintage
Primary Appearance: Star Wars, Ep. VI: Return of the Jedi
Difficulty: Intermediate

A more accurately painted version of the original figure, including a wet, slimy mouth.


1 Vintage Jabba the Hutt